Make More Money Building Decks: Decking (Part 4) Last of four articles

By Mark Clement Photo 29 In the first three parts of this series, I've described framing and installing the posts for a new deck using a method that saves production builders a lot of time. Now it's time for the decking and finishing touches. Lay out decking. Pull a measurement from the front band joist back to the house on each corner of the deck. (Photo 29) If the measurements are equal, place a deck board against the house. Measure to the front edge of the deck board as a double check. If the measurements are more than 1/2 inch off, make some adjustments. Here are three ways to fix the problem: Trick #1. For frames about 1/2 inch out, fan out the deck boards on one side to make up the gap. Only open them a little more than 1/8 inch. Over the course of several boards, you can get parallel to the front band. Trick #2. Cantilever the last deck board 1-1/2 to 2 inches over the front band. This works best on low decks where you can't see the discrepancy from below. Don't cantilever more than 2 inches, though. Trick #3. Pad out the front band parallel to the deck boards with a decorative wrap, then run the decking over it. Once you've got things lined up the way you want them, you're ready to move on. Photo 30 Decking overhang. Next, determine how far the decking overhangs the band joists; 1 inch is nice. For a decorative band joist wrap, increase the overhang to 1-1/2 inches. Cut the first three deck boards to finished length, then install them. (Photo 30) Determine their finished length by measuring the deck frame; then cut a board 2 inches longer (or 3 inches, if you're wrapping). If one deck board doesn't span the deck width, cut your first deck board so it has the correct overhang on one side and lands halfway on a joist on the other. Continue the rest of the span with another board. Repeat for the second and third courses, staggering splices. It can be a little tricky to get the boards so that the deck looks right. For frames wider than deck-board length, stagger butt joints and go at least four courses before using the same joist for another joint. Photo 31 The key is to run deck boards wild over the left and right band joists. Say you have a 20-foot wide deck and 16-foot boards. Working from left to right, install a long deck board. Hang off the left side 2 feet or so. Set the right side so it sits halfway on a joist. Cut another board to cover the remaining span (about 4 feet) plus about 4 inches for overhang. For the next course, use the cut-off from the previous course as your starter board. Land it halfway on a joist at least two joists away from the first splice. Let the left side run wild; fill in the right side. (When using a cut-off to start a course, make sure the end that'll butt with the next board is cut square. You can cut these in place using a circular saw and a speed square as a guide. Photo 31) Photo 32 Photo 33 Install Decking. Using spacers, install the remaining deck boards. Using store-bought spacers works best (Photo 32), but you can cook up a jig on site. Just make sure all installers use identical spacers. ChoiceDek, which I used on the project in these photos, requires a 1/8-inch space between all deck boards, around posts) and at all butt joints. Fasten all decking using stainless steel trim drive screws. Once you've installed the first three deck boards, run the rest of them 1 to 3 feet wild. (See the bulleted points above.) Notch the decking. Notch the deck boards around the posts. (Photo 33) Use scraps as test pieces before cutting new deck boards. It takes a little more time on the front end, but it's worth it. Install the last board. Notch the last board around the posts and install it. (Photo 34) If the last board overhangs the deck framing more than 2 inches, rip it to width, then bullnose it to match the other deck boards. Snap cutoff line. At each front corner of the deck, measure and mark 1 inch out from the band joist (or 1-1/2 for a wrap). Pull a chalkline tight to the edge of the first courses of deck boards already cut to length. Snap. (Photo 35) Trim decking. Cut all the wild deck boards at once. This is fast and accurate. Maintain a clear working path along the deck's edges. Unless you're using a cordless circular saw, have enough cord to reach the entire cut. (Photo 36) Photo 34 Photo 35 Photo 36 Photo 37 Photo 38 Photo 39 Photo 40 Photo 41 Handrails Handrail layout. Measure between the posts at their bases. Take on-the-money measurements and cut all pieces to match. A miter saw is best for this job. Make the panels. Spread rails and balusters on the deck and install the balusters. Use a spacer block to maintain 4 inch on center baluster installation. (Photo 37) Note: If I did this every day, I'd build a work table of saw horses and 3/4 inch ply with stops so I could mechanize panel assembly. Install the panels. Set the rail panel on 2x4 blocks. (Photo 38) Toe-screw each rail panel securely to each post top and bottom. Repeat for each panel. Install the top rail cap, if any. Add a gate. Assemble the gate like a rail panel. Then, to prevent sagging, install a diagonal brace. (Photo 39. The Starrett ProSite Protractor is ideal for dialing in funky angles like these.) Install the gate using proper gate hardware. Install the post caps. Run a bead of Phenoseal on the top of each post (Photo 40), then set the cap into it. Eyeball the post cap square to the rail. Install railing support blocks. 2x2 railing support blocks are required for the Lowe's ChoiceDek system I used. (Photo 41) I cut them from baluster material and fastened with one screw in the bottom center of each rail. Final Phase I always love installing the last little piece of a deck. I think about the block of lumber that slid off the delivery truck and about all the earth moved, material cut and fasteners driven. I love it. I can relax now and think of my customers enjoying their new deck (and me enjoying my check). But I'm not quite done. Part of every project I do is a desire to leave a place better than I found it. I and/or my crew have trundled around my customer's home for a week or more, and after I clean up all the tools and debris, I walk the site looking for coffee cups, lunch wrappers, etc., and make sure that everything is clean and orderly. Then, right before I get in my truck, I take a look at my work. (Photos 42 and 43) I transformed a bundle of wood into a place people can enjoy themselves. It's days like these that make me happy to be a carpenter. Photo 41 Photo 42 Mark Clement is a remodeler and author of The Carpenter's Notebook and The Kid's Carpenter's Workbook, Fun Family Projects! Find out more at www.TheCarpentersNotebook.com. 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