Fabricating Door and Window Casings on Site A versatile, easy-to-make casing that can solve tough problems.

By Mark Clement Every so often, the forces of the universe conspire — and not in a nice way — to block people from success. If you're a remodeler, it happens every couple of days, if not hours. It happened to me on a basement build-out, where the customer specced stain-grade, knotty pine trim. The base was 1-by with inside/outside corner blocks, which were no fuss, no muss. But the customer wasn't happy with the door, window, and other casing details. The curlicue profile of standard casing didn't match the beefier square stock at the base. Even if that look worked, the base was proud of the casing leaving an ugly intersection and a clip-cut that returned the base to the same plane as the door trim failed to impress either of us. The remodeler's money/time-loss nemesis was amassing troops. Then, restrictions on budget and ceiling space didn't allow a beefier casing (which wouldn't have matched anyway). So, you say, why didn't I just use 1x4 stock and butt-joint it around the doors and windows? I did. And, not only did the customer's face fall with disappointment when he saw the mock-up, so did mine. It was too plain for the space. Even with chamfers and a cantilevered head jamb, it was extra dull. Photo 1 The final phalanx of forces had arrayed, and I could see spear points glistening. I finished an entire basement only to be stymied by a stinkin' casing detail. But then I had an idea. I ran to the truck and 15 minutes later came back with a solution — and a molding trick I've been able to yank gracefully from my sleeve ever since. Soon after (with all humility and grace I could muster, I might add) I named it after myself: The Clement Profile. (Photo 1) Photo 2 Doors Making the jamb legs What I like about this trick is that thinking of it was harder than fabricating it. Installing is even easier than fabricating. Just like square stock butt-jointed pine, my system consists of three parts: butt-jointed head and leg casing. But it's more than that. First, set up your router with a chamfer bit. I like to remove 1/4 inch of stock. Routers work fine for this, but it's an ideal application for the new-ish trim routers — nimble little tools that are easy to maneuver on-site. Next, before cutting the jamb legs to length, rout the sides and the top, leaving the bottom square (Photo 2). Simple.   1 | 2 | 3  NEXT