Window Replacement Article courtesy of DIY Network.

Replacing inefficient windows can make a big difference to your utility bills. Because it's a fairly challenging job for the average homeowner, most folks will want to bring in a contractor. For dedicated do-it-yourselfers, here are the steps that are involved in a typical window replacement project. Time: 16 hours over two days. Difficulty Rating: This project rates a 4 out of 5 on the Weekend Handyman difficulty scale. Paul Ryan, host of DIY's Weekend Handyman, shows how to rip out an old window, and ... shows you how to replace it with a new window ... that's functional, beautiful and energy efficient! Removing the Old Window and Frame Materials: Safety glasses Ladder Utility knife Pry bar Hammer Safety goggles Gloves Reciprocating saw Figure A Figure B Figure C Run a utility knife along the edge where the trim meets the wall (figure A) to avoid ruining paint job. Then pry off the old trim. Chip away the plaster to find the rough opening. Measure the rough opening carefully so you can be sure to get the correct window size. Measure between the jack studs, up to the header and to the sill plate beneath the window. Remove the Old Window Unscrew and pry out the old storm windows. Take care not to shatter the glass. Tip: Whenever you're doing a project that will stir up lots of dirt and debris, it's a great idea to rent a dumpster. A medium-size yard dumpster rents for approximately $125; be check with your local rental company for rental periods. Disassemble as much of the windows as possible (figure B). While cutting out the weights, be sure to hold on to the sash or it can fall and shatter. If the upper sashes are painted shut, cut them loose with a utility knife. Note: Take your time when working around old glass and be sure to wear eye and hand protection. Cut the silicone bead that secures the casing to the exterior siding (figure C). Use a reciprocating saw to cut out the old frame. Tip: Cut at an angle rather than straight across. This will make it easier to push the pieces out. Remove all the old casing around the exterior frame. Framing In the Rough Opening Materials: Safety glasses Ladder Tape measure 2" x 4" pieces Safety glasses Impulse framing nailer 1" x 4" pieces Miter saw First, be sure to clean the rough opening well -- and note that a heavy-duty vacuum can assist with this chore. Measure the windows and frame in the opening with 2 x 4s. Place the boards on the top (figure D) and the bottom first, then put in side boards. That way you'll get more structural support out of your framing. To fill the space between the new framing and the sheathing, use 1 x 4s ripped to fit the gap (figure E). Figure D Figure E Installing the New Window Materials: Safety glasses Ladder Utility knife Pan flashing Flashing tape Self-adhesive sealing tape House wrap Caulk gun 100-percent silicone caulk Minimal expanding foam insulation Hammer stapler 1-1/2" galvanized roofing nails Shims Aluminum drip cap Figure F Figure G Figure H Figure I Note: Before the new window can be installed, the rough opening must be sealed properly. Seal the window by laying flexible flashing tape over the sill and extend it up the sides of the frame. Tuck the tape behind the siding, creating an impervious seal that will prevent water from seeping down under the window (figure F). Apply a layer of house wrap all the way around the opening and attach it with a hammer stapler. Overlap the opening and tuck it behind the siding. Apply a bead of silicone along the backsides of the flanges on the window (figure G). Do this on the top and sides but not the bottom. If water does get in it will be have room to escape. Use about half a tube per window. Place the window in the opening. Level the bottom first using shims. Lift the window up off the sill so you have room to get insulation in. Nail the flange in place using 1-1/2" galvanized roofing nails. Don't nail them tight just yet because you "may" still have to do some adjusting. Check the square by measuring corner to corner, and then nail the corners into place. Before doing the final nailing, put the window sashes back in (figure H). Shim the sides of the frame out, then finish nailing in the side flanges. Center the self-adhesive sealing tape over the flange. Shoot minimal expanding foam around the inside frame. (Be sure to look for the proper foam for sealing windows and frames.) Put the aluminum drip cap (figure I) around the outside of the window and cover with house wrap -- tucked under the siding. Seal it up with the sealing tape. Finish it off with exterior trim. Installing the Window Insert Materials: Safety glasses Ladder Pry bar Shims 2' and 4' levels Tape measure 2-1/2" screws Silicone Insulating foam 1x material Impulse nailer Paint Paintbrush Remove the storm window and window sashes. Pry out the jamb liners (figure J) and tear out the old stops. Put the new window in place and shim until it is level and square. Drive 2-1/2" screws through the pre-drilled holes. Trim off the shims. Inside, lay a piece of trim to cover the gap (figure K). Put a bead of silicone around the sides and the top. Outside, put insulating foam between the window and frame (figure L). To finish sealing the window, use pieces of 1x cut to fit and then nail into place. Touch up the stop with paint. Figure J Figure K Figure L RELATED ARTICLES: Home-Energy Audit and Thermographic Inspection Improving Home-Energy Efficiency by Installing A Ceiling Fan Green Remodeling Offers Smorgasbord of Ideas Green Flooring — From Carpeting to Cork