Build a Solid Retaining Wall: Phase 2 The second of two parts

By Mark Clement Phase 1 of this series detailed why this wall works, site prep and initial layout phases for the "solid-state" retaining wall. Phase 2 is about bringing the wall out of the ground and giving your customer a wall and landscape feature that you both can be proud of. Bridging keeps the posts in place until the cement footing dries. Make sure posts are plumb in all directions. A line from the far left post to the far right simplifies measuring the other posts accurately. Setting Posts Step 1. The next step is to set posts on temporary bridging, as I would for a deck post. Bridging facilitates setting posts at the exact height I want; they're easier to get and hold plumb. Even if you need a footing inspection, you don't have to wait to place your posts. And if your footing inspection fails a hole or two, you can pop out a post and fix the footing without too much delay. The way to make measuring post length easiest is to set the far left and far right posts on layout — and dead plumb in all directions. Bridge and brace them securely, then pull mason's line tight between the tops. Now just measure to the bottom of each hole from the string and cut subsequent posts to length. You'll be able to mark the post where the bridging goes too. With all posts plumbed and the bridging and 2-by holding them in place, it's time to pour concrete into the post holes. After you set them, use 2-by to tie the tops together for added stability, then pour concrete. One 80-pound bag per hole usually works fine, but two can never hurt. I always keep a garden hose handy to wash off any concrete that spills onto the posts. Set cleats in the corner post and the diagonal post for the returns. Step 2. After the concrete has dried sufficiently, strip the bridging and back fill the post holes. I like to tamp the fill down with the head of a sledge hammer to pack it in tight. Make sure the posts stay plumb. Returns My wall returns back into the hill. Rather than dig out more hill, I used cleats as backers for nailing the planks. I installed a vertical cleat along the corner post and a diagonal cleat matching the hill's angle set just below grade. Then I applied the planking to them.   1 | 2  NEXT RELATED ARTICLES: Build a Solid Retaining Wall: Phase 1